*NO* it is not a strength problem. Silver soldered joints properly done are in the tens of thousands of pounds of shear strength range. The problem you will run into with silver soldering SS is getting it to work right. If you get the slightest bit of oxidation while soldering, the solder will not flow correctly. You will probably draw on your experience of other kinds of soldering and assume that you have not applied enough heat and apply more heat to get it to flow. WRONG!!!!! You need to back off, cool it down, clean the surface thoroughly, re-flux, try again. If you do not get it to work immediately and wet completely, back off immediately and cool it down. It is incredibly easy to get the trace metals in the SS to migrate out of the heated area and cause embrittlement. You can literally tap the heated area with a hammer lightly and a chunk will fall out. THIS IS NOT SUPPOSITION OR THEORY, IT HAPPENED TO ME!!!! TIG is a lot like gas welding. Pretend your TIG torch is an OA torch and use filler rod (SS of course). MIG is what I use. I am pretty accomplished with both gas and MIG welding. Whether you are using MIG or TIG, if you don't want to raise wooly caterpillars on the backside of what you are welding, you must flood that side with inert gas as well (fill the inside of your keg with CO2 while welding the outside). If you don't do this, then you will need to do a lot of grinding, and or wire brushing on the backside to remove the oxidized stuff. It would be just like MIG welding with no shielding gas. In any case, if you use a wire brush, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use a steel brush on SS. You will embed steel particles in the SS surface and cause it to begin to rust. The only way to correct this after you have done it is to get the SS passivated (dipped and soaked in nitric acid).